Thaipusam devotee Even though the sun has yet to rise, the wide array of colorful consecrations shining from the the bodies of the devotees light the long way forward to the Batu Caves.

Swimming through the sea of shaved yellow heads and thick early morning dew, one can’t help but to gyrate in tune with the bellowing chants of the crowd and the melodic rump-a-dum-dum reverberating from the long line of drummers dancing along their side.

I take a deep breath in and fill my lungs with the intoxicating scent and vigor of the ubiquitous burning incense; even though I only slept a few hours the night before, I feel more awake and alive than I can remember.

A quick glance to my lower right and my eyes are met by a pentrating stare peircing through me. The man, deep in trance, is draped in a gown of leaves and has red paint smeared around his eery wide grin. Like many of the other participants, this devotee is carrying a kavathi via hooks in his back. I stand immobilized by this man’s hypnotic glare; while being restrained by one of his entourage, he lunges forward snapping his jaw at me to and fro in a slow irregular motion.

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Further ahead, close to the Batu River, a priest deep in chant spears a metal rod the width of a pinky and lengh of an arm through an entranced man’s jaw. As I look on wide-eyed in disbelief, I feel a tug on my right arm from behind.

A young Indian man, body covered with white ash, implores me to join him in the procession of his friend. He leads me down the path, right aside the river; I instantly start dancing with the crowd as if it’s an uncontrollable reaction–which it was.

Thaipusam devoteeThaipusam devoteeThe priest places his hand on the devotees forehead, who is a huge tree of a man–the bright fruits hooked on his body contrast sharply with his charcoal colored skin.

All of a sudden, the devotee jumps back into a ritualistic dance, swaying side to side, and then dives on the ground with arms outstretched and commences in a series of wild frantic gyrations to the loud cheering of his proud family and friends.

When the devotee has finished the ritual, he leans back and greedily takes puffs out of a cigar with a swagger and air of confidence appearingly unbeknownst to the human race.

A glimse at the mass pandemonium of some of the 1.5 million followers that make the journey here at the Batu Caves for ThaipusamIt’s the eve of Thaipusam, and on this holiest of Hindu days, an estimated 1.5 million devotees from all over the world come to Kuala Lumpur to make the journey to the Batu Caves and pay their respect to Lord Murugan and all that he represents–valour, vitality, and happiness, as well as the triumph of the power of good over evil.

The reasons for participation, as well as the degree of participation, vary significantly; some seek to overcome bad karma, some as penance for their sins, and others to honor a vow.

Of course, many perform the ritual also as a means of reaffirming their faith. And to me, this is the most amazing thing about Thaipusam: the incredible power that unwaivering faith can hold. Many hear about this festival, and others like it, and are stunned to find out that most of the participants never bleed and are left with a complete absence of wounds or marks from the flaggleation underwent. But by understanding the deep interconnection between mind and body, this should not be so shocking: just as the body directly affects the mind, the mind also does the body. By deeply believing in something, in anthing, we alter our physiological composition to appropriately achieve what our mind is telling us; Thaipusam is testament to this extraordinary power in belief.

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Now that's some serious devotion...The end of the holy pilgrimage: the Batu CavesThaipusam devoteeThaipusam little devoteeThaipusam devoteeThaipusam devotee